Wednesday 6 July 2011

Sovereign round the Med


Some images from a week-long circumnavigation of the Western Mediterranean onboard the MS Sovereign. Originally delivered to Royal Caribbean in late-1987, at the time of her inauguration, she was the world's biggest passenger ship and she knocked SS Norway into the number 2 spot and Queen Elizabeth 2 into number 3. As a 13-year-old boy, I remember being very excited reading about Sovereign of the Seas and realising that this great ship existed - albeit sailing weekly from Miami, a place I would be unable to visit for some years to come. In 2009, Sovereign was transferred to the Mediterranean to operate for the Spanish company Pullmantur and I joined her in Barcelona, accompanied by my good friends Ann Haynes (writer of the excellent Haynes World shipping blog) and the Danish maritime writer, photographer and all-round good chap Soren Lund Hviid(www.paxpix.dk). Sovereign proved to be a wonderful ship - albeit a little frayed around the edges after nearly 25 years' hard usage.


In Barcelona, the Sovereign was berthed aft of a much newer large Royal Caribbean cruise ship, Brilliance of the Seas. The newer vessel's toweing superstructure contains deck upon deck of outside cabins with balconies, whereas Sovereign boasts only a very few of these on one deck.


Sovereign's atrium; back in 1987, such a large shopping mall-like space had never previously been found on a passenger ship - but thereafter atria of this type became standard features of all subsequent cruise ships. Sovereign's atrium remains eighties-tastic.


Leaving Barcelona.


A warm Mediterranean evening on the lifeboat promenade deck with Sovereign's Spanish passengers chatting and smoking, much as they would do of an evening on a street in Barcelona.

Sovereign's wake and flagstaff at dusk.



Time for a cocktail in the Viking Crown Lounge, the wrap-around cocktail bar cantilevered from Sovereign's funnel.


At anchor in the bay at Villefranche, our first port of call and only a short walk from Nice:


A funny Art Nouveau mansion on the outskirts of Nice:


An aerial view of Nice harbour:


Back in Villefranche, Sovereign had swung round into a very helpful position for photography:








Villefranche maritime museum - scary!



Sovereign's show lounge:



Andalucian-style pig's cheek for dinner - it was delicious.






Signs in Livorno, our second port of call:





We took an Italian Intercity train to visit the lovely Renaissance town of Lucca:









In Lucca's famous piazza, which follows the footprint of a Roman amphiteatre:








A purveyor of various sizes of knobs and knockers:







A somewhat less glamorous diesel train for the return to Livorno:


Whizzy concrete sports hall, spotted from the train:


Livorno main square:



Moby Otta arrives in Livorno in perfect evening light:


Port number 3, Civitaveccia with Costa Mediterranean and Mariner of the Seas:


Time to read the Danish translation of the manuscript of my forthcoming book about Danish liner shipping, due out in the autumn from Nautilus Forlag (www.nautilusforlag.dk):



The Italian Railways train ferry Scilla arrives (above), followed by Mega Express Two and Moby Freedom (below):





Taking photographs while holding a drink is a special skill of mine:


Scintu arrives in the early evening, followed by Nuraghes:




Nomentana leaves, then Cruise Roma appears:



Dinner - a big steak - mmm!


Some passengers form a conga-line in the dining room. I'm sure it's not good for the digestion to dance so soon after having eaten:


Approaching Naples in early-morning light:


An old Clyde favourite, laid up in Naples harbour:


Noordam approaches Naples' Stazione Marittima:



The Staziona Marittima is a very imposing building from the Fascist era - but I soon found more such wonders when I began to explore Naples:






Naples is a fascinating city, but its garbage collection is notoriously haphazard and so, on a hot summer day, its smelly streets are not suitable for those of a sensitive disposition:











The view from the fortress:






The sensational Post Office and Telegraph building - a wondrous example of the Fascist-era 'Littorian' style (ie Italian streamline moderne):











Approaching Palermo:



A travel agency in Palermo, little-altered since the 1960s and featuring the advertising and graphics of numerous long-vanished shipping lines:














Palermo's magnificent fire station - another Fascist-era monument:








Luncheon in Palermo - this was delicious.



Palermo's post office - this one verging more towards monumental neo-classicism:





La Superba arrives in Palermo harbour:


Onboard Sovereign during the final day at sea - the wind picked up causing quite a few of my fellow passengers to become unexpectedly re-acquainted with their lunches (for so big a ship, she's not a very good performer in a breeze):



The view from my cabin porthole:


Farewell night dinner - a Moroccan lamb confection (good, but not as good as the version Ann Haynes makes!):